Monday, September 23, 2013

Lisbon Metro

One of the best way to travel from point A to  B,  in a  number of European cities is on board the metro-  the  underground rail tunnel system designed  move large number of persons quickly and efficiently.   For a new  visitor, the language and the procedures may be confusing, but can easily be overcome.

Please bear with me, for the details. It is given on the  suggestions of a few regulars who read this blog.

First thing you should know is- where exactly you want to go. On a visit of limited days you should read from the web about the city and places and make  a shortlist of the attractions you want to see. For example Google Lisbon in 3 days and see how much links  are thrown before you. You could pick tit bits from each, to  design your tour.

Here, let me explain how we  got from the Lisbon Airport to our hotel, Holiday Inn,  near Campo Pequeno metro station. Staying near a metro station is the smart way to go sightseeing.

At several points in every metro station and also  inside the car, one can see the metro map. Here is the Lisbon metro line map. 
Like in  the US where metros - called the  subways - were first introduced more than hundred years ago, with color code for each line, the European   lines have also are taken a color code for each route.  Now it has become an international standard.


 Here the airport line is red.  This line run  between the airport and Sao. Sebastiao - an  import area of the city.  Similarly the blue, yellow and green  lines serve  other parts of the city.Trains on one line do not go to areas of other line, yet the system is fully  interconnected by offering transfers in some stations where both line pass each other at different underground levels. The tunnels can be far deep.  Passengers take escalator and steps to reach the platform for each  line. Tickets are not based on distance traveled but for journey to any  station in the system that any line goes. So once you enter with your ticket you have unlimited free travel, until you finally  come out to the city level at your destination.
To ride again,  you'll  need another ticket unless you buy a one- day-unlimited pass, valid  for 24 hours costing 8 euros. Each European city has its own policy but in most cities one can buy 4 day, weekly or monthly pass - progressively cheaper as far as per-ride-cost is considered.

 Local residents have  another fare- including an annual pass. Mostly these lines carry people from residential zone to the place of work in the city and back while  offering  the  visitors the best way to go from one attraction to the other inside the city.  In Lisbon a metro ticket can also be to board the bus and tram lines too,  allowing transfer to exact locations in the city  if you  have the right  plan. 

If you notice the grey lines at the end points of the coloured lines;  which  are the regular over-land  long distance trains that go to other part of the country or the boarding point for international trains. At the south end of the blue line is Apolonia the main rail station of Lisbon. The grey ones are electric trams that run on tracks laid upon  city roads sharing  the road with cars buses and other surface traffic.

Being the main railway station from here you can also get on the the trains that travel to all distant cities. But it is not part of metro network.  Here the metro line  and the  regular line pass through the same station - metos underground and rail line  over ground.,  providing  seamless connections and convenience. As these two are different systems  the tickets too are separate.
 
The metro  trains continuously  run at very short intervals  to and  fro on its own  line, without entering any other coloured line . So If your destination is on a different  colour line you have to get down a the station where both lines meet and switch to  the other line. We took the red up to  Saldanha, and the went   further down an escalator to catch the yellow line. These transfers  are so easy  as it is clearly notified  by excellent  boards and pointers - that even if you do not know the local language, no help is required.  The only thing is to know  which side of the platform your  train  will arrive, as the line goes both ways- here the yellow line is north to south.  As we are heading one station north to Campo Pecquno we should not go to the platform that goes south to Rato. This platform selection is also part of the notification and unless you are careless or  stupid,  it can be easily be figured out.

And you should not expect people to help you out, unless you are lucky to run into a kind heart. People do not talk to estranges as a general rule. But in passing one may feel that the Portuguese crowd are much more free and friendly than the Spanish crowd.  Here again there is no general rule, as anywhere else  a few people may help you, but don't bank on it. It is all a cultural thing.
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So here goes an anecdote. A couple of  days  before,  in one park in Toledo, the  ancient capital of Spain, as we were waiting in line to get on the  toy train, that went around the city's castle walls,  we  met a  charming   family from Visakhapatanam and were huddled in a friendly chat- when the man complained about this aspect; how easy it is  for the European visitors  to find directions in our cities. "All they have to do is ask, and they are always helped. Here no one speaks to you". It is a cultural thing, I agreed with him and  after a while asked him. " Sir, You are traveling with your wife and two daughters. What  do you feel  different here"? His  wife and girls laughed out  and  the elder cute college student said, ”It is so comforting  here, no one stares,  no body even takes a look at us. These people are  so cool”.
"It is a cultural thing", I replied.
"I wish our men would also be like them", she said, and it was my turn to laugh.
 Go on wishing Telugu girl, may your wishes come true soon.
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In Lisbon a single ride from Airport is 1.90 euro per person. Single ride - also means unlimited travel once  inside the system. That is you could make any number of line hopping as you require, but once you exit to the city level above your journey is at an end.

 The ticketing machine and its card.

We purchased 24 hour unlimited pass  for each of us. It can be bought from the ticketing machines placed at several points, using credit or debit cards. You can also push in 1, 5 and 10 euro currency notes one after the other. The ticket will be printed inside the machine and dropped into the holder for you to pick up - along with the receipt. Any balance receivable will also fall into the tray. So if you run out on ticket validity  just buy or top up at the platform or the gate.  No body checks the tickets. But at the entrance gate, the bar will turn to let you in, only if you swipe your ticket card.

It is a good system, a boon to tourists. If you chose a hotel near a metro line you can go anywhere easily.

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Getting to the city- the options





TAP Portugese  the national carrier. Most visible aircraft in Lisbon Airport.
The fin paint of each one slightly different.


As I mentioned we arrived in Lisbon airport  at 8 am on 6th August. The pane circled the city a few times waiting for a slot to land. Unfortunately I missed the the chance to see the city from the sky as we all had middle seats.
Our humble Vueling Aircraft- Budget Airline. 
Thankfully we paid less than the train fare to get here.

As Vueling was a budget airline  they didn't serve breakfast. So we had  breakfast in one of the airport cafeteria and then from a kiosk purchased a Vodofone SIM for Portugal; with a week's  data and voice plan for 10 Euros. It allowed 5 euro talk time with unlimited data usage. As Matt had roaming on his phone we were not looking for voice calls, rather a good data plan for our  phone's GPS.

 Our hotel, Holiday Inn Express  is located  in the city center close to  Campo Pequeno, a bull fight ring. The check in time was 12 noon. So armed with the new connection we called the reception to know if they would allow early check in.  A good number of  Europeans hotels allow it if the room is ready. So it is always better to check than waiting around with luggage for a few hours.

Hotel rooms in Lisbon are comparatively a cheaper by Madrid rates and unequivocally so, with regard to Barcelona's day light robbery.  We were able to get this triple accommodation for 105 euros per night( around Rs. 8500) - a steal by Indian 4 star rates. Shame on you Indian Hoteliers. Europeans with much higher wage and operational costs are kinder to us than you guys when the hapless citizens of your country stay with you.

We had to shell out 190 for Madrid and 240 for Barcelona. Barcelona  is a tourist hot spot. But this rate was accomplished with good amount of research over  a period of time in the web using bookings.com or expedia.com.  I also have to  acknowledge that  it was our own  yatra.com that offered me the Madrid booking, in Hotel Medodia, right next to Atocha Rail station for a considerably less amount than the foreign  sites, payable in Indian rupees.
                
Of course, for Lisbon  taxis are the easiest way to reach the city center. They are lined up outside the terminals, and even with luggage, it would only cost you between 10 and 15 Euros depending where you get off.
 
If you have  lots of luggage  you should perhaps opt the AeroBus which runs between the airport and the city center. A ticket may be purchased directly from the driver for €3.50. They run every 20 or 30 minutes and stop at important points in the city such as Entrecampos, Campo Pequeno [ our stop ], Avenida da Republica,  Avenida da Libertade,  Rossio, Praça do Comercio etc. where your hotel might be.  These places became familiar to me as we roamed the city the coming days.

We decided to take metro, to get the feel of the place. The only catch was that from the metro station we had to lug the suitcases over the cobbled streets for 10 minutes to reach the hotel. (More about Lisbon streets pedestrian area -which deserve special attention- later).
Thankfully we checked in, had a good shower and some rest; before we set out to embrace the city.

In most western cities the underground metros ply.
So to a new visitor to the continent, let me explain how to use the metro system.
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Next
Getting Around Lisbon ..

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Portugal - Part I - Arriving in Lisbon; In the Foot Steps of Gama.

I had made up my mind not to blog on travels because the the selection and editing of photos and text was stealing a huge amount of  my time,  from my pasttime -following news and current affairs - which I enjoy so much.

But a good friend nudged and taunted me, not to give up.

So here comes Portugal and later - Spain.

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Ever since the day, as a school boy,  I stood on Kappad beach in Kozhikode  ( formerly Calicut ) on the Malabar Cost of South- West  India,  where Vasco Da Gama landed in 1498,  I was energized  by the historic  journey of  Gama and wanted to see the other end - from where he set off - Lisbon in Portugal. 

It remained unrealised for more than four decades.

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 If you want to read on Gama's trip click the link below. Press play button on the map to see his route.

http://www.ucalgary.ca/applied_history/tutor/eurvoya/vasco.html

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Portugal situated on the western side of continental Europe

 

 As has become a habit,  I take a picture of  the LCD console of my seat depicting  the flight path. It is 12:30 pm local time, 2:30 pm  in Dubai, and 4pm in India, my home.  12 hours after leaving Kochi  we are about to begin the descend into Madrid. The captain has just called back all passengers to their seats and requested to switch off all electronics device. In 30 minutes we will be in the Spanish capital, located at the middle of the country.

Jessy and I,  arrived in Madrid on the 3rd of August from Dubai, on a very hot afternoon. It is a family vacation in the planning for about 6 months. Our son flew in from New York via London and touched down about 30 minutes after we landed. We had fixed to meet at the airport's shuttle bus  stop, that ply between terminals.

But we had a long  line for passport control, which  he hadn't and so we met inside the terminal.

To save a day we had planned to go straight to Barcelona, from where our sightseeing began. Generally we always take  the local train from the airport to the  the city center, because this gives a good first feel of the new country. But as the fare for three would not save  a significant amount of Euros, we took the comfort of a taxi ride to Atocha, the main rail station in the city, to get on the Renfe AVE super-fast train to Barcelona. 

   

 Our train waiting on her track. It is not a magnetic levitation -runs on wheels.

 

  Just couldn't resist a picture with the beauty.

Traveling on this super-fast train was part of the plan, though it was an expensive option. The first class would be about 180 Euro per person, compared to about 100 for budget flight and about 60 by bus. But the standard class price for tourist class ranges from  €120 - €140 - depending on when you purchase - cheaper if you book early. It is easy to buy on line with a credit card, from any where in the world. I bought online and  printed our boarding-pass at home.

 

The GPS Test App is quite a handy tool to have if you like to know your position, heading and speed. This app is a free download but it has some limitations. If you pay $ 4.50 you could get the full version. I recommend it.

Inside the car the speedo-meter informs the passengers the velocity of the beast.

The train touched 306 km/hour in one stretch-  the fastest speed I have ever traveled on land. Other than the speedo-meter  inside the car, I had my Android App 'GPS Test' installed and tracked the speed and heading - something I always enjoy to do. 

The train could touch 320 km/hour but a couple of week ago one such Renfe AVE had derailed due to pilot negligence and our train never traveled at 320.

 You hardly feel the speed inside. In the sound-proofed and luxurious environment one can enjoy the grand view that pass you by.

  AVE took us to Barcelona in 2 hour 45 min covering  a distance of 504 kms.

From: Barcelona, Spain To: Madrid, Spain


The  main advantages to a train journey is you have more opportunity to relax and enjoy. There's no need to be at the station hours before to check in. European trains are luxurious. Good leg space and opportunity to move around. My partner adore this. You can see the scenic countryside, on the day trains, plus you have the option of dining in the restaurant or snacking in the café bar and making a real experience of the journey. The trains are very punctual too.

But I wouldn't have complained if my train had arrived late, because my son pointed out that in Spain if it reaches 15 minutes late, you could get a full refund. But ours arrived in Barcelona dot on the appointed time.

 

Barcelona City


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Stay in Barcelona and trip to Andorra will be another story. So we jump 3 days to Lisbon. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For the flight to Lisbon, we reached Barcelona Airport from the city by metro, which was close to our hotel near the famous Diagonal Road and FC Barcelona Football Stadium. Though we were here only for a couple of days we all took a liking for the city.

Our original idea was to take a day train to Lisbon, to see the country-side of both countries. But as the journey was about 12 hours with a transfer either in Seville or Madrid and thereby losing an entire day and more so, because the train fare was much steeper than the 1 hour Vueling Airline  budget flight  costing only 125 Euro  per person - we decided to fly. We left BCN  at 7:30 am and arrived in LIS by 8:25 am. 
Consequently saved another full day for Lisbon.




Lisbon called locally as Lisboa,  is Europe's second-oldest capital (after Athens, Greece - which I love to see one day). Lisbon was the  home of  the world's greatest explorers like Vasco da Gama, Magellan and Prince Henry the Navigator and so many others.


 I am here because Gama was there.
Gama  died while in India and was buried in St Francis Church in Fort Kochi in 1524. Inside the church you can still see
his original burial site marked with a marble stone.


Later his body was taken to its final resting place inside St. Jeremiah Monastery, Lisbon, Portugal.
Hello big sailor, who came to my place, for spices that are only grown in my place; brought wars and misery to my people, carried cashew and rubber ( which I plant to make a living) to our shore, and made me read many books on your adventure, here I am in your country and with  you too..........
sorry to be a little late ....
490 years.


 The sarcophagus inside the marvelous St. Jeremiah Monastery, Lisbon.Gama's final resting place.
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End Part 1-  Arriving in Lisbon; In the Foot Steps of Gama.